How to Cut Hair at Home-Introduction
Hi there! I’m so glad you’ve decided to invest your time to learn what I know about cutting hair. I’d like to take the time to introduce myself. My name is Nannette and I created this haircutting program so that anyone can learn how to cut hair at home. I’m a licensed cosmetologist and I’ve been in the industry for 12 years now. My hair cutting experience has consisted of working in various different salons including a very high end salon in a five star resort where a lot of my work was with clients who were very particular about how they wanted their hair cut. From there I moved on to cutting hair in my own salon for a few years until finally deciding to sell it and start a new business venture that allows me more time to spend with my amazing family. The bottom line is that I’m very passionate about helping other people be and do more than they ever thought possible. My goal with this hair cutting program is to help you learn to cut hair starting with the basics. As a professional, I feel many other programs on the market, which are designed to teach people how to cut hair, are very broad and leave out a lot of important details. For that reason, I made sure when I created this program to include everything you’ll need to know to effectively cut hair. Please keep in mind this program is designed to teach you how to cut hair at home. Whilst you will learn how to effectively cut hair you must remember that time, patience, and practice is the key to success. I also want you to be aware that even though you’ll know how to cut hair like a professional, it is NOT legal to cut hair for profit until obtaining proper licensure which would cost you at least $10,000 and a minimum of 10 months of your time. This how to cut hair program is designed to save you money starting with the initial cost to learn. Your savings will continue every month you don’t have to take your entire family to the salon paying an average of $20 per person. I’m going to teach you how to cut hair, what tools to use, when to use them and how to use them to create different effects. You’re going to learn what the four basic cuts are (that’s right, there’s ONLY 4) and variations of each haircut. You’ll learn how to choose the perfect cut based on particular face shapes and you’ll learn all the stuff in between. I’d like to recommend a very effective way to use this how to cut hair program. That is, to start by watching the whole thing all the way through without trying to do anything. Just watch. Then go back and watch it again, stopping along the way to practice everything up to the point of actually cutting. You must feel totally comfortable with every step before actually cutting the hair. Some parts may feel a little monotonous watching it a second time through, but it’s better to feel that way temporarily than to miss something really important. If you’re still confused with any of the information after watching it a second time through, go back and watch just that section that you’re confused on. Please take my warning seriously when I say, don’t watch just a couple sections of the program and pick up a pair of scissors or clippers and start cutting. I could almost guarantee if you do that, you’ll get through part of the haircut and come across something you didn’t expect and that you don’t know how to handle. I practiced on many, many mannequins and made many, many mistakes. Since you probably don’t have a mannequin handy right now you’ll want to utilize all of the information available to you BEFORE you begin. So let’s begin!!
How to Cut Hair at Home-Tools
There are 3 methods of cutting hair. They are scissor cutting, clipper cutting, and razor cutting. We’re going to focus our attention on scissor cutting and clipper cutting because razor cutting is a more advanced technique which requires a significantly more amount of practice time and it requires much more finger strength. I will, however, show you how to use the razor for creating texture which we’ll get into a little bit later. Either way, whatever method of cutting you choose to use, it will require a certain set of tools. Let’s look at the basics you’ll need to do either men’s, women’s, or children’s cuts. In order to properly cut hair you will need:
- A cape (to keep the hair you cut off their clothes)
- Spray bottle (to wet the hair)
- Combs (7” Styling combs)
- Butterfly or similar type hair clips (to hold the hair back so you can cut the hair)
- Haircutting scissors (to cut the hair...lol)
- Clippers and Trimmers (to do men't haircuts and finish work around the hair line)
- Clipper guards (blender guard, 1/4”guard, 3/8”guard, and 1/2”guard)
- Razor (for more advanced haircuts)
- Thinning Shears (optional but great for alot of different haircuts)
Where can I get the tools I need to learn how to cut hair?
You should be able to get all of the tools listed above at a local beauty supply store near you. Just make sure to call ahead of time and find out if they sell products to the general public because a lot of beauty supply stores are actually distributors for licensed professionals only.
How to cut hair. Cape
When selecting a cape, you will notice there are many types to choose from. You’ll see haircutting capes, color/chemical service capes, multi-purpose capes, etc. I recommend trying to find one that’s lightweight and not too bulky. For example, color/chemical capes are usually made of a thick plastic to ensure the clients clothing doesn’t get stained with color or saturated with perm solution. I have found these capes to be too bulky to use while cutting hair so I prefer a cape that is lightweight and made of cloth. If you’re trying to cut cost you can use a torn garbage bag. Please don’t use this technique on a small child due to the risk of suffocation. I would avoid using a towel because they are really hard to wrap around the person without a lot of bulk getting in the way.
How to cut hair. Combs
The most common comb, that’s used when haircutting, is the 7 inch Styling comb. It is a great tool for many reasons. First of all, the spacing of the teeth is different on either side of the comb. One half of the comb has teeth that are spaced really close together and the other half has teeth that are spaced a little farther apart. This allows for different amount of tension. When the teeth are spaced closer together you can comb the hair with much more tension. This is great for creating very precise lines to cut. When the teeth are spaced farther apart, it allows you to work with larger amount of hair. Also, less tension is put on the hair creating a softer line. You may also notice with this comb that it has markings at each inch up to seven inches. This is so helpful for determining how much hair you need to cut or how much hair should be left on the head after cutting. The 7” Styling comb comes in really hand when someone tells you, specifically, how many inches of length they want cut off their hair. I always show them my comb and say something like, “This is what an inch really is. Do you still want that much cut?” Often times, one person’s idea of what an inch is, are a lot different than another’s.
How to cut hair. Clips
When selecting clips, there’s no need to be picky. The main idea when selecting clips is to make sure it will hold a significant amount of hair since it will be used to clip large sections of hair out of the way.
How to cut hair. Scissors
Haircutting scissors are a MUST! You absolutely cannot do a decent haircut without them. And, no, really sharp craft scissors will not do the trick. Haircutting scissors come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and functionality. You don’t need to get really fancy when selecting a pair. Most beauty supply stores that sell to the general public don’t sell the really fancy, expensive ones, so your options will probably be fairly limited anyway, which is a good thing! The main thing you’ll need to pay attention to is the size. I would recommend getting something from 5 ¼” (5.25) minimum to 5 ¾” (5.75) maximum. If you get a pair that’s smaller you’ll have to work with much smaller amounts of hair and if you get a pair that is any bigger, you really run the risk of cutting your fingers or cutting the person whose hair you’re cutting. Larger shears really require a great deal of handling in order to use them without getting cut. I know it sounds a little ridiculous hearing me tell you to be careful not to get cut but it’s important to remember that you’re often times cutting towards your fingers and hands. Normally, I would also recommend you find a pair that is comfortable for you but since you’re just beginning, everything you try is going to feel a little awkward until you get used to handling them. So, let’s talk about the parts of the scissor and how you should hold them. The scissor has six different parts that we’re going to talk about. They are the tang, the finger grip, the thumb grip, the hand screw, the moving blade and the still blade. The tang is the little piece of metal that extends from the finger grip. This is designed for you to rest you pinky finger on when you’re cutting, for stability and control. The finger grip is connected to the tang and is the round opening where your ringer finger on your dominant hand would go. The finger grip extends along the length of the scissors, diagonally to meet the still blade. The thumb grip is the round opening below the finger grip and is the opening where your thumb will go. The thumb grip controls the moving part of the blade. In the center of the scissors you will notice the hand screw. This serves the shears in a couple different ways. For one, it holds to two blades together. It can also be tightened or loosened. When the hand screw is tightened, the scissors become harder to open and close. When the hand screw is loosened the scissors will open and close easier. The ease at which your scissors open and close, is entirely up to your personal preference.
How to cut hair. Clippers
Clippers are another necessity if you’re going to be cutting boys or men’s hair into a buzz cut or a fade. Most clipper sets come with a matching trimmer for detailing areas such as the hairline, around the ears, and any facial hair. If it doesn’t you can purchase the trimmer individually or you can choose to use your clippers to do the job. I must warn you that without the experience of using the clippers for detailing, you run a higher risk of accidentally cutting hair that you hadn’t intended to. You will also need to invest in a set of clipper guards if your clippers don’t already come with them. As with everything else, clipper guards come in a wide range of sizes. You really, only need four different sizes. They are the blender, a 1/4”, a 3/8”, and a 1/2". The blender cuts the hair closest to the scalp and the 1/2" guard leaves a 1/2" of hair on the head. If you want the hair to left longer than that, you could transition to use you scissors for that section. For example if you were to do a fade where you wanted the hair at the nape of the neck to be really short and you wanted the hair on the top of the head to be left at an inch and a half you would start at the nape of the neck using the blender guard. Then as you progress up the back of the head you would switch over to a 1/4" guard, then 3/8”, then 1/2", and finally blending the sides in with the top using your scissors. I’m going to show you later on, just how to do this.
How to cut hair. Razor
The last tool that is commonly used to cut hair is the razor. As I mentioned before, I’m not going to focus on doing a full haircut with the razor, although after you learn the basics of cutting you’ll be able to do a haircut with the razor if you so choose. Just know that it takes a lot of time and patience to master a full razor cut. I prefer to use the razor for things like texturing or thinning the hair which I will show you how to do a little bit later. There are multiple types of razors you can get. I prefer one with an immobile handle. As with the scissors, I want to talk briefly about the parts of the razor and how to hold it. It’s important to get comfortable holding the scissors and the razor because once you’re ready to cut hair, you’ll be adding combs, clips and hair into the mix of things you’ll need to hold onto and it’s important that you have a good grip (pun intended) on how to hold the tools that can cut. There are 6 parts of the razor that we’re going to talk about. They are the tang, the handle, the shank, the shoulder, the blade edge and the blade guard. The tang is where your pinky finger goes for stabilization and control. The handle is attached to the shank. Some handles are immobile while others have a handle that moves allowing you to work in tighter spaces. When holding the razor, you fingers should be on top of the shank while you’re thumb grips it from the bottom of the shank. The shoulder is where the blade attaches to the razor. The shoulder can usually be used to remove and old blade in order to replace it with a new one. The blade edge is the cutting edge of the tool and the blade guard fits over the blade, protecting you and the person whose hair you’re cutting. Only an experienced professional should use the razor without the blade guard and even then it’s a technique that should be used with extreme caution.
How to cut hair. Thinning shears
The last tool I will tell you about is an optional one to have on hand. It is the thinning shear. This tool is designed to create texture or remove bulk within the cut. The thinning shear has teeth that are spaced different widths apart. The closer together the spacing of the teeth, the more hair can be removed and the more texture is created. If the spacing of the teeth is farther apart, less hair is removed from the design and less texture is created. An average amount of spacing of the teeth on a thinning shear is 1/16” apart. I find the thinning shears work exceptionally well for blending lines, as with a fade haircut. When it comes to creating texture, I prefer to use the razor.
How to cut hair. Holding the scissors
Now that I’ve gone through the tools you will need for cutting hair at home, I want you to take some time and practice holding your scissors, especially. I want you to make the blades move and I want you to practice moving your thumb in and out of the thumb grip which is going to be necessary when we add the comb. Once you feel comfortable with this I want you to pick up your comb using your thumb and index finger of your cutting hand. To do this, you’ll need to remove your thumb from the thumb grip and grasp the scissors so the blades are closed and so that your index finger and thumb are free to pick up the comb. At this point you would be ready to comb the hair. Once you’ve directed the hair to point at which you’re going to cut it, you’re going to have to switch the comb to your left hand (if you’re right-handed), hold the hair between the index and middle finger of your left hand (if you’re right-handed), and put your thumb back in the thumb grip. At this point you would be ready to cut the hair. Of course at this point we’re not going to actually cut the hair.
Once you feel comfortable handling the scissors, comb, and hair, you can move on to practice holding the razor. When it comes to holding the clippers, it really depends on what part of the head I’m cutting around to determine how I hold the clippers. [Show how to hold them here]
So, now that you know what tools to use and how to use them let’s talk briefly about where the best place is to do your haircut. A few things to take into consideration when determining the place to cut hair are:
- Lighting- It’s important to be in a room that provides good lighting. Just like an artist wouldn’t paint a masterpiece in poor lighting, you shouldn’t sculpt a haircut in poor lighting either.
- Flooring- I find that cutting hair on bare floors is much easier to clean up than trying to clean hair out of a carpet. However, if the only spot where there is good light is on a carpet, just make sure you’ve got a vacuum handy.
- Mirror- I would consider placing a mirror in front of the person who is having their hair cut. It allows you to check the position of the persons head and body, the evenness of the haircut, and it can help keep your body position in check.
How to Cut Hair at Home-Anatomy
Now that you’re all set up in the right environment with the proper tools it’s time to take a look at the head as this is the part of the body you are going to be working around in order to perform a haircut. As we begin this section I think it’s important that we cover a little bit of anatomy so that when I say the nape, you know what part of the head I am referring to. The main areas or points of reference when cutting hair are, the crest, interior, exterior, fringe, front, back, sides, perimeter, nape, crown and occipital. The crest is the widest part of the head and is shaded in gray in the diagram below. The interior portion of the head is the whole area above the crest. The exterior portion of the head is that which is located below the crest of the head. The front of the head is located from the ears forward to the face and the back of the head is considered to be the area from the ears to the back of the head. The sides of the head are located from the crest down. The fringe is a small section in the interior, front portion of the head. The perimeter is the entire outside of the design. The occipital bone is located in the lower back portion of the head. You can feel a protruding bone in the back of your head. This is your occipital bone. The nape is located below the occipital bone and the crown located diagonally back from the eyes, in the center of the head. The crown is a place where you will find a strong growth pattern. It’s important to either cut the hair in this section really short or leave it longer than the rest of the hair in order to keep it from sticking up on end. It also helps to work against the growth when cutting this section of hair. I’ll explain a little more about this later on when I’m showing the haircut. Now that you know the parts of the head let’s talk about choosing what cut to do.
There are a lot of things to take into consideration when determining what would look the best based on the features you have to work with. The information I’m about to share with you is knowledge that a professional stylist uses before giving you her “advise”. The first thing you should know about face shapes is that an oval face shape is thought to be the most esthetically pleasing or ideal. It’s a fact that a small percentage of people actually have an oval face shape. Therefore, it’s the job of the hair stylist to make up for it by how she/he cuts the shape of the hair. The four main face shapes, other than oval are:
- Round- For this face shape the person needs to have height added either in the bang area or the crown. Basically, as long as you add height to the top of the head either by cutting layers or by styling, it will offset the roundness of the face.
- Square-Added height will help elongate this face shape as well. Another thing that helps is creating curvy lines or roundness to the haircut. You can do this by angling the front starting just below the cheek bones. You can also create layers which will add width to the style decreasing the angles of the square face shape.
- Triangular or pear-shaped- This face shape is usually wider in the jaw area and narrower at the temples and above. This face shape would benefit from a haircut with added width at the temple and above and sleekness at the jawline.
- Long or rectangular- In order to give this face shape a more pleasing outlook you would need to add volume to the hair on the sides of the head You could also add bangs to shorten the appearance of a long face.
Now that we’ve taken the person’s face shape into consideration, we also have to look at the neck and shoulders to determine how the hairline should be cut. If the person has a short neck, they may benefit from a haircut with added height. If the person has a long neck, width can be added to the haircut to fill in the space between the head and shoulders. As far as shoulders, if the person has really broad shoulder, they may benefit from a round or curved hairline. If they have narrow shoulders, a squared off hairline may be more appealing. Last but not least we have to look at the existing biological features the person has regarding how much hair they have on their head and what direction(s) does it grow in. For example, does the person have a receding hairline? Is there any balding? Does the person have any cowlicks that would stand up if cut too short or in the wrong direction? You may be wondering what to do after you’ve noted all of these features. I will answer those questions a little bit later on when we’re doing the haircut.
Believe it or not, you are up to the point where you will actually begin the process of cutting. There is a specific sequence of actions to take during a haircut. It begins with sectioning the hair. Sectioning is simply dividing the hair into more manageable sections on the head. A lot of haircuts involving longer hair involve dividing the hair into four sections. To do that you would make a center part starting at the front, center hairline and drawing a straight line back to the crown. You can now section out the sides by starting at the top center part and drawing a straight vertical line down to the ear. Everything from the ear forward can be clipped out of the way. Then move to the other side repeating the same process of drawing a straight vertical line from the top center part to the other ear. Once you clip this section out of the way you will have three sections. To make the fourth section, you need to continue the center part from the crown extending down the back of the head and ending at the center of the nape.
How to cut hair. Parting and distribution
Once the hair has been section you are ready to begin with your first parting. Parting the hair is subdividing the sections even further. When parting within a section you can part straight, diagonal or curvy lines depending on what shape you want the haircut to have. For example if you want the back of the haircut to be rounded, you can use diagonal lines when parting. After the parting is complete there are just a few more things to take into consideration. First of all is how the hair will be distributed in relation to the part. In other words, the distribution is the direction the hair is combed, in relation to the part, before cutting it. There are four types of distribution. They are natural, perpendicular, shifted, and directional. Natural distribution is how the hair lays over the head due to gravitational pull. You can visualize what natural distribution might look like if you think of shaking your head back and forth when it’s wet. Whatever position it falls to when you stop shaking your head is considered natural distribution. Perpendicular distribution is when the hair is directed at a right angle from the base parting. Shifted distribution is when the hair is directed away from the parting at any other angle besides a right angle. Directional distribution is when the distribution varies from one area of the base parting to another. Once you’ve determined how you will distribute the hair you need to think about how you will project it out from various different parts of the head because as we know the head is not perfectly round. Projection is how the hair is lifted in relation to the natural the curves of the head. It’s hard to visualize this so I want you to think about a protractor for a minute. I’m going to show you what projection is all about using the protractor. [Show projection here] A few final points of the haircutting procedure are:
- Finger position- This refers to how your fingers or shears are positioned in relation to the part. They could be parallel to the part or non-parallel to the part. Note: In most cases your fingers will be parallel to the part
- Design line- The design line is also referred to as the length guide used throughout the haircut. This line can either be stationary or mobile depending on which kind of cut you choose to do. A stationary design line means that each section of hair is brought to the same line before being cut. A mobile design line moves throughout a given area on the head. In either case the design line is used as a guide in creating the shape of the haircut.
- Head position- There are three main head positions that you will use while cutting. They are the forward head position, upright head position, and tilted to one side or the other.
At this point you’re probably feeling a little overwhelmed. You may be saying to yourself, “Well, how do I know which way to part, when to distribute and what to project?” That will make a little more sense as we go through each cut and you can see for yourself.
It’s time!! We’ve followed the procedure and we’re ready to learn the first haircut. As I mentioned before there are ONLY four. The four basic cuts are solid form, graduated form, uniformly layered, and increase layered.
How to cut hair. Solid Form
Solid Form- A solid form cut is often times referred to as a blunt cut or a bob. The type of cut is created when all of the hair falls over the natural curve of the head (crest) and is cut at one length and at 0? projection. 0? projection means cutting the hair without lifting it away from the head at all. What that means in regard to the length of the hair on different areas of the head, is that the hair in the exterior part of the head is shorter than the hair in the interior part of the head. This happens because the hair on the top of your head has further to travel before meeting the design line. The design line with a solid form haircut is stationary. Once you cut the design line/guide, it stays put and all of the other hair is brought down to meet it. So, let’s walk through the procedure starting with sectioning. You would section the hair into four sections as described above. Then take down one section from the clip and part a horizontal line. The distribution will be natural to the part at a projection of 0°. Your finger position will be parallel to the part and if you’re working on the back of the head, the head position should be forward. If you were working on the sides, the head would be tilted away from the side you are working on. This is the procedure you will use for all four sections of the head. Some examples of a solid form haircut are:
How to cut hair. Graduated form
Graduated form- This cut is similar to the solid form haircut in that the hair in the exterior portion of the head is shorter than the hair in the interior. One of the big differences with this cut is that the hair in the interior doesn’t fall to meet hair at the nape of the neck, Instead it falls just short of that creating a stacked look. The way to create this kind of layering is by projecting the hair. That means you’re going to have to pull the hair away from the head before cutting it. The degree at which the hair is lifted away from the head will determine how steep the graduation is. If you want to create just a little graduation in the layers, then you would use a low projection. A low projection is anything under 45°. If you want a lot of graduation in the layers you would project the hair above 45?. You should know that the standard for a graduated form haircut is 45°. Another big difference with this haircut is that the design line is mobile. Every section of hair that you cut becomes the new guide for creating the ultimate design. The guide changes and moves throughout parts of the head. This concept is probably going to be a little hard to grasp so I want to walk you through the procedure again starting with sectioning. I still like to section the hair into four sections and make a horizontal part in each of the two back sections. The part should be about 2 inches up from the hairline in the back. To begin the haircut you may need to start with a forward head position because you will be working in the nape of the neck which can be a bit of a tight workspace if the head position is upright. Please note that when you get to the section at and above the occipital bone, the head position should be upright. Okay, so now that we have a two inch parting at the nape of the neck, you will distribute the hair perpendicular to the part and project the hair away from the head at 45°. It may help to visualize the protractor until you get a sense of what a 45? angle looks like on different parts of the head. Your finger position should be parallel to the part as well. Once you cut off the desired amount of length, you now have your first guide/design line. This guide is what you will use to cut the next section that you bring down. Part horizontally, another two inches up the back of the head. The guide on the bottom should be brought up to meet the new section that is projected at 45°. Once you see the guide underneath you can cut the excess length off the new section. The new section of hair you just cut becomes your guide/design line for the next section you bring down and so on and so forth. At this point you are probably getting a better understanding of what a mobile design line is all about. Don’t worry if you’re still a little bit confused because we’re going to go through the entire haircut a later on in the program.
How to cut hair. Uniformly layered
Let’s move on to the third haircut which is uniformly layered. With this haircut the hair in the interior part of the head and the hair in the exterior part of the head are the same length. To give you an understanding of what uniformly layered would look like, I want you to visualize a bald head and for the purpose of our conversation, pretend that every strand of hair grows at the same speed. If the bald head started to grow hair with the same amount of speed on all areas of your head, you would have the look of a uniformly layered haircut. What that means is if you were to measure the length of hair on top and compare it to the length of hair in the crown, nape of the neck, or side of the head, you would find it would all be the same length. In order to create this look you would need to project the hair at 90? on all areas of the head. This means that you will be using a mobile design line again. Let’s walk through the procedure. Start by sectioning. For this cut I like to begin with just 3 sections. I clip the front two sections out of the way. I leave down all of the hair in the back to start working with. The partings will vary throughout this haircut, from horizontal to vertical to pivotal. Once you’ve determined what you want the length of the haircut to be you’ll begin with a small horizontal parting in the crown. I like to start with creating my guide in the crown because the crown is center most point of the head and by starting here you can move in any pivotal direction around the head. However, with the front sections being out of the way I like to start by working my way down the back of the head. The head position should be upright. The distribution will be perpendicular to the part and the projection will be 90°. Your finger position will be parallel to the part. After cutting my guide I will start with a small vertical part down the back of the head and cut the hair closest to the guide. Once I do that, the guide then continues to move around the head with me. I’ll continue the haircut with vertical and pivotal partings around the head. Every time I get to a new section I will start back at the crown and work my way out to the hairline in all directions. Make sure that your partings stay small so that you’re properly projecting the hair. If you’re sections are too large some of the hair will be projected properly and some won’t which will leave you with a very uneven haircut.
The last and final cut is an increase-layered cut:
With this cut the hair in the interior part of the head is shorter than the hair in the exterior part of the head. To create this look you’re going to use a stationary guideline again just like with the solid form haircut. The big difference is in where the hair is ultimately directed to. With a solid form haircut, the hair is naturally distributed over the curves of the head and with this cut the hair is distributed perpendicular to the base parting. Again, to give you a visualization of what this haircut is really about I’m going to have you picture a really odd scenario. If you were hanging by your legs from some monkey bars, all of your hair would fall with gravity toward the ground. Now, if someone came along and cut your hair perfectly straight in this position, when you turned right side up again, you would have an increased-layer cut. Obviously because you’re not going to string someone up by their toes to create this look, I’m going to teach the real way to do it. Let’s follow the procedure. Start with three sections, clipping the front two out of the way and leaving the entire back to work with. You’re going to be using small horizontal partings. It will be distributed perpendicularly. The projection is going to depend on what part of the head you are looking at. At the mobile design line, the hair will be projected at 90° but with each subsequent part the hair will be projected at 180?. The head position will be upright and the finger position will be parallel to the part. You will continue working in horizontal partings around the head while projecting the hair toward the original guide/design line.
You now know all four of the basic cuts!! It’s important to know that there are variations of each cut which can occur simply by changing the design line. With that being said, there is one more cut that I want to tell you about and that is a combination haircut. A combination haircut is one that uses two or more of the basic cuts in one form or on one head, rather. For example: You could have a graduated form haircut in the back of the head while having a uniformly layered look in the front. This is where the artistic piece of cutting hair comes into play. This is where the possibilities are endless! You can change the partings, the distribution, the projection and your finger position to create virtually any look you want but you will wind up with one or a combination of the basic cuts that you just learned. If you want to buy a couple mannequins to experiment with some of the possibilities, more power to you. However, if the only hair you have to work with is on a living beings head, I strongly recommend getting very familiar preforming the basics with minor variations before moving on to more complex designs. You must master the basics before moving on to creating your ultimate master piece. After all, Michelangelo didn’t wake up one morning, pick up a paintbrush, and start painting the Sistine Chapel.